Anyone who’s trying to introduce a new product into a developed market asks “what does this product bring that’s fresh, unique and attractive to consumers who probably have a favorite already?” Breaking into liquors, one of the most heavily-marketed and consumer-loyal product segments requires something even more special.
I’ve extolled the virtues of shochu many times, but the question that still eludes me is where does it fit in with existing drinkers?
To be honest, it’s a poor replacement for whiskey – given the restrictions on color (and thus aging), even great aged mugi shochu lacks the complexity of aged whiskey, and making that comparison anchors it as just a cheap replacement. It ignores the subtlety that koji brings, its incredible serving versatility , and shochu’s effectiveness as a food accompaniment. I hate having to compare it to whiskey, but it often is the easiest connection to make, and I think that’s to shochu’s detriment.
I think rice shochu is better in almost every way to vodka EXCEPT as a mixer – rice shochu brings too much flavor to ever be mixed with tonic or juices. It’s wonderful with soda, but because it’s (intentionally) weaker after dilution, it’s a poor party drink (which is a good thing i guess). And honestly, outside of Eastern Europe, who drinks vodka neat or even on the rocks these days?
It doesn’t compare easily with gin, as even the aromatic shochus (imagine shiso or ume) are relatively simple compared to gin, which I think is a positive attribute- drinking gin neat or even on the rocks is a tough ask. For people used to the flavor of gin-tonics however, it’s not an easy transition.
I’d say the closest shochu has to a reference point is kokuto shochu and rum – most people aren’t familiar with good aged rums and so are used to a simpler set of rum flavors – vanilla and caramel and rich sweetness on the nose. Kokuto brings all that but in a much lighter package, fantastic with soda and ice. No sugary mixer or soda required.
All that said, that’s why I’ve been struggling to talk about shochu as its own thing – not beholden to any western alcohol or even sake. “I know it reminds you of a lot of things but it’s none of those.” Try to see it and taste it free of any preconceptions. It’s obviously a hard sell, but otherwise shochu will just keep being seen as a “lesser” or “lite” version of other liquors to non-Japanese. An ongoing struggle to be sure.