Rice (Kome 米) Shochu

Rice shochu is probably the oldest form of shochu, first recorded sometime in the 16th century, logical given how closely related it is to sake (which is thousands of years old). In fact, many sake producers also produce shochu (like Hakkaisan) or leverage their sake lees to create Kasutori shochu (like Dassai – see below).  Like sake, shochu uses koji spores to breakdown rice into sugars before fermentation, but that mash (moromi) is of course further distilled to make shochu, unlike in sake production which directly utilises that byproduct after pressing/filtering. As a result, many rice shochus have an aroma of essentially distilled sake, with yeasty undertones, tropical fruits and umami notes. The legendary Torikai is a perfect example. 

Basic rice shochu are quite clean and crisp, and they are the most “vodka-like” of all the shochus, though with more fruit and richness from the koji-rice combination. Vacuum-distillation is the norm, which allows lighter flavors and more delicate aromas to come through. As you move up the rice shochu ladder though, the variety of flavors coaxed out of humble rice is amazing; Sengetsu’s Kawabe is full of banana esters and complexity, Kuroki Honten’s atmospherically-distilled Yamasemi has nutty, barley notes. This is even before discussing aged rice shochu which are sadly quite rare in HK, but I feel have lots of potential for whiskey-lovers looking for something a bit lighter and more floral.

Torikai - Since 1575

One interesting variation on rice shochu is Kasutori Shochu, or shochu made with sake lees (sake kasu 酒粕), aka the fermented rice leftovers after sake has been pressed out of it. Sake lees have myriad uses in Japan including for beauty products (what do you think SK stands for?), but they can also be re-fermented by the sake producer and distilled into a very unique shochu. Full of fruit and sake flavors, it’s a bit powerful for me, but the concept is fantastic. Japan Distilled did a great podcast on how Kasutori shochu allows sustainable sake production by removing the alcohol, which is toxic to plants, from the otherwise nourishing lees, turning them into wonderful fertilizer for crops.  We don’t get a lot of kasutori shochu in HK but City Super carries Shichida’s and Sake Central used to carry Masumi’s Sumi

Check out the kasutori episode of Japan Distilled here: https://japandistilled.com/kasutori-shochu/.

Shichida's Kasutori Shochu

Rice shochu’s Geographical Indication is centered around Hitoyoshi in Kumamoto Province and the Kuma River, well-known as one of Japan’s purest water sources. Kuma Shochu must be made in the Kuma district/Hitoyoshi using the water from that area, with of course only rice and koji as ingredients. As of 2021 there are 27 distinct distilleries certified as Kuma shochu producers, including some of the biggest producers like Hakutake, and the aforementioned Sengetsu. 

Kome Jochu

Rice Shochu in the Shochupedia